| Drosera Gemmae |
| Carnivorous plant sales and growing information This is a website dedicated to pygmy Drosera! |
| Chino Hills, CA 91709 droseragemmae@yahoo.com |
| Introduction: Most species of pygmy drosera live exclusively in south-west of Western Australia. They inhabit a region that has hot dry summers and cold wet winters. The plants have periods of growth and periods of dormancy induced by the climate. The plants are well adapted to the dry conditions. They form white dense stipules to protect them from the intense summer sun. The roots are big and go deep into the dry soil to find traces of moisture. |
| After 3 weeks the small plants have 2-3 leaves capable to catch pray. (photo 3) After 5 weeks the growth accelerates and the plants gain in size. (photo 4) |
| Copyright © 2008-2010 Drosera Gemmae. All rights reserved. |
| After 7 weeks. (photo 5) After 9 weeks. (photo 6) |
| After 16 weeks the plants are mature and growth slows down as fall approaches. (photo 7) After 6 months the plants start the gemmae production as soon as the days get shorter and cooler. The leaves begin to dry out and soon all the plants energy will be directed towards the gemmae production. (photo 8) Flowers? Maybe next summer! |
| Disclaimer The information provided above is based on our experience growing these plants. Please remember that we may live in different climates and that alone will bring some new challenges in your effort to grow pygmy drosera. |
| About The Images You can use any of our images/photos ,without editing them, in private purposes only and not commercial! We will constantly update the photos and in time try to fill up the gaps. If you have any comments or questions do no hesitate to contact us! Enjoy! |
| After 2 weeks from sowing the first true leaves appear!!! (photo 2) |
Cultivation:
Soil: In the wild most pygmy drosera grow in sandy mixes. In cultivation they do well in mixes of
peat/sand/perlite. There is no mix perfect for all but most growers agree that a mix of peat/sand
or peat/perlite 50/50 will do the trick. You should use more peat in your mix for the species that
grow in wet areas.
Pots: Small plants, small pots...right? Wrong! I do admit that some hybrids don't mind being
grown in 2" deep pots but most really like to have root space. I use 4" deep pots. The deep pots
also help in keeping the soil cool in the summer. Having wide pots give your plants the space to
grow and make nice big rosettes.
Watering: The tray method works well for pygmy Drosera. I just keep my 4" pots in trays with
water 1" deep during the growing season. In the summer i let the water evaporate and leave the
tray dry for a day or 2 before adding more. Some growers are getting good results by top
watering. I did try it but didn't see any difference...it will not cause anything bad either as long as
you do it with caution. Good quality water is a must so please remember to use only distillated,
reverse osmosis or good rain water to grow these plants! If you are using reverse osmosis water
make sure the PPM is under 50.
Temperature: This is the most important factor for me. I live in a climate with some very hot
summers and just 2-3 months of cooler temps. It is important to keep the temps under 90-95 to
prevent the plants from going dormant. Even with a high water level they will go dormant if the
temps are high! This is valid for most but i have to exclude some hybrids that just won't go
dormant no matter what the temps may be. If they do go dormant all you can do is give them
cooler dryer conditions and hope for the best (translation= hope you don't loose all of them!).
On the other hand, they can take low temps even under 32F but i always try to avoid going under
35F.
Humidity: Being so close to the wet soil helps when referring to air humidity. I grow mine in a
very dry climate with very low humidity. They don't care much about it! I haven't provide or
grow them in high humidity yet so i can't help you on that.
Light: Full to part sun. If you live in a region with hot summers you may consider giving them
some shade during the hot temps and prevent any from going dormant. They tend to grow
smaller, healthier and more colorful in full sun but you have to keep them from going dormant
during the hot summer months. The light has to decrease in intensity and the plants have to
receive less hours of light as winter approaches. This and the cooler temps are the trigger in
gemmae production.
Propagation: The best way is by gemmae. These are modified leaves that serve as a food reservoir
for the small plantlet attached. Gemmae appear during the wet season and have different shapes
and sizes. They have a very high germination rate if placed on wet soil. There are many gemmae
germination methods. Some species can be propagated well by leaf cuttings or decapitation (for
tall species) but these are less popular choices. A few species are relatively easy to propagate by
seeds but the vast majority are annoyingly hard! A pygmy plant usually produces tens or
hundreds gemmae every season. Some species can produce gemmae 2 or even 3 times in the same
year. Last year i had some scorpioides plants producing gemmae in November and again in June.
It is nothing uncommon, some species tend to do that. Also some species can produce gemmae
really fast before reaching maturity (maturity=flowering). I had pots of different species
producing gemmae after only 2 months from germination! All depends on the time of year the
gemmae get sown and on the growing conditions provided.
Soil: In the wild most pygmy drosera grow in sandy mixes. In cultivation they do well in mixes of
peat/sand/perlite. There is no mix perfect for all but most growers agree that a mix of peat/sand
or peat/perlite 50/50 will do the trick. You should use more peat in your mix for the species that
grow in wet areas.
Pots: Small plants, small pots...right? Wrong! I do admit that some hybrids don't mind being
grown in 2" deep pots but most really like to have root space. I use 4" deep pots. The deep pots
also help in keeping the soil cool in the summer. Having wide pots give your plants the space to
grow and make nice big rosettes.
Watering: The tray method works well for pygmy Drosera. I just keep my 4" pots in trays with
water 1" deep during the growing season. In the summer i let the water evaporate and leave the
tray dry for a day or 2 before adding more. Some growers are getting good results by top
watering. I did try it but didn't see any difference...it will not cause anything bad either as long as
you do it with caution. Good quality water is a must so please remember to use only distillated,
reverse osmosis or good rain water to grow these plants! If you are using reverse osmosis water
make sure the PPM is under 50.
Temperature: This is the most important factor for me. I live in a climate with some very hot
summers and just 2-3 months of cooler temps. It is important to keep the temps under 90-95 to
prevent the plants from going dormant. Even with a high water level they will go dormant if the
temps are high! This is valid for most but i have to exclude some hybrids that just won't go
dormant no matter what the temps may be. If they do go dormant all you can do is give them
cooler dryer conditions and hope for the best (translation= hope you don't loose all of them!).
On the other hand, they can take low temps even under 32F but i always try to avoid going under
35F.
Humidity: Being so close to the wet soil helps when referring to air humidity. I grow mine in a
very dry climate with very low humidity. They don't care much about it! I haven't provide or
grow them in high humidity yet so i can't help you on that.
Light: Full to part sun. If you live in a region with hot summers you may consider giving them
some shade during the hot temps and prevent any from going dormant. They tend to grow
smaller, healthier and more colorful in full sun but you have to keep them from going dormant
during the hot summer months. The light has to decrease in intensity and the plants have to
receive less hours of light as winter approaches. This and the cooler temps are the trigger in
gemmae production.
Propagation: The best way is by gemmae. These are modified leaves that serve as a food reservoir
for the small plantlet attached. Gemmae appear during the wet season and have different shapes
and sizes. They have a very high germination rate if placed on wet soil. There are many gemmae
germination methods. Some species can be propagated well by leaf cuttings or decapitation (for
tall species) but these are less popular choices. A few species are relatively easy to propagate by
seeds but the vast majority are annoyingly hard! A pygmy plant usually produces tens or
hundreds gemmae every season. Some species can produce gemmae 2 or even 3 times in the same
year. Last year i had some scorpioides plants producing gemmae in November and again in June.
It is nothing uncommon, some species tend to do that. Also some species can produce gemmae
really fast before reaching maturity (maturity=flowering). I had pots of different species
producing gemmae after only 2 months from germination! All depends on the time of year the
gemmae get sown and on the growing conditions provided.
------------------------------------Gemmae Germination
As we all know the best way of propagating pygmy drosera is by gemmae. Gemmae are
reproductive embryos, a perfect clone of the mother plant. They usually appear from September
to April and have different sizes, shapes or color. Most look like small round green to brown
seeds located at the center top of your plants.
Pygmy drosera gemmae are not seeds, they are living plants and do not store well. It's
recommended that you plant them as soon as possible. If you have to store you can wrap them in
a wet paper and place inside a plastic bag in your refrigerator in a area that won't freeze! You can
keep them like this for a few weeks but you have to remember that they loose their viability as
the days pass!
If you receive a gemmae pack form us you have to get them out of the packing. Just open the
ziplock bag and pull out the paper. Unfold the paper and you will see your gemmae.
Get a pot. Try to find a plastic pot 3" or deeper. The plants may be small in size but their roots
are very long. Make sure the pot has drainage holes.
Prepare the soil mix. You will find many good mixes out there but you have to remember that no
mix will fit all! As a general rule the species that don't go dormant tend to do better in more
peaty mixes, the more rare that go dormant do better in sandy mixes. Many growers use a
standard peat/perlite (50/50) or peat/sand (50/50) mix. A standard mix will not kill your plants
but the right mix can make them grow like crazy! Make sure your silica sand is lime and salt free.
Always choose a good peat (Canadian) and use fertilizer free perlite! We recommend starting with
a mix of peat/sand since perlite will facilitate the growth of algae om the surface of your soil. If
you are using a peat/perlite mix you can put a 1" layer of peat/sand or pure peat on top to hide
the perlite and inhibit the algae growth. Some growers also use a top layer of pure sand. The trick
is to maintain a very high water level and humidity until the gemmae germinates and their roots
go deep in the soil. This method is a good way to prevent or delay moss growth in your pots.
After choosing your mix place the pot in a water tray so the mix can get wet. Take a pointed
object and carefully remove the gemmae from the paper and transfer them to the pot. If the
gemmae have roots make sure you don't break them when taking them of the paper! Lay them
flat on the soil and gently bury the roots, if any. Place the gemmae on the soil surface and DO
NOT cover them with soil! Make sure you space them accordantly.
You can place them in a terrarium for greater humidity or just gently sprinkle them with
ro/distillated water a few times a day. They can also be germinated in same conditions as the
mature plants grow but if you want to give them a head start you have to grow them under
fluorescent lights for the first month. Good quality water is a must so please remember to use
only distillated, reverse osmosis or good clean rain water to grow these plants! If you are using
reverse osmosis water make sure the PPM is under 50.
After forming 3-5 true leaves you can take them in your greenhouse or windowsill. Most pygmy
sundews don't grow well in terrarium for long periods of time with the exception of a few hybrids.
Some species can grow well outside in full sun during the summer months others will just go
dormant and never wake up. It's common for a pygmy sundew to die from heat exhaustion
during summer so take precautions and have spare pots in different locations.
As we all know the best way of propagating pygmy drosera is by gemmae. Gemmae are
reproductive embryos, a perfect clone of the mother plant. They usually appear from September
to April and have different sizes, shapes or color. Most look like small round green to brown
seeds located at the center top of your plants.
Pygmy drosera gemmae are not seeds, they are living plants and do not store well. It's
recommended that you plant them as soon as possible. If you have to store you can wrap them in
a wet paper and place inside a plastic bag in your refrigerator in a area that won't freeze! You can
keep them like this for a few weeks but you have to remember that they loose their viability as
the days pass!
If you receive a gemmae pack form us you have to get them out of the packing. Just open the
ziplock bag and pull out the paper. Unfold the paper and you will see your gemmae.
Get a pot. Try to find a plastic pot 3" or deeper. The plants may be small in size but their roots
are very long. Make sure the pot has drainage holes.
Prepare the soil mix. You will find many good mixes out there but you have to remember that no
mix will fit all! As a general rule the species that don't go dormant tend to do better in more
peaty mixes, the more rare that go dormant do better in sandy mixes. Many growers use a
standard peat/perlite (50/50) or peat/sand (50/50) mix. A standard mix will not kill your plants
but the right mix can make them grow like crazy! Make sure your silica sand is lime and salt free.
Always choose a good peat (Canadian) and use fertilizer free perlite! We recommend starting with
a mix of peat/sand since perlite will facilitate the growth of algae om the surface of your soil. If
you are using a peat/perlite mix you can put a 1" layer of peat/sand or pure peat on top to hide
the perlite and inhibit the algae growth. Some growers also use a top layer of pure sand. The trick
is to maintain a very high water level and humidity until the gemmae germinates and their roots
go deep in the soil. This method is a good way to prevent or delay moss growth in your pots.
After choosing your mix place the pot in a water tray so the mix can get wet. Take a pointed
object and carefully remove the gemmae from the paper and transfer them to the pot. If the
gemmae have roots make sure you don't break them when taking them of the paper! Lay them
flat on the soil and gently bury the roots, if any. Place the gemmae on the soil surface and DO
NOT cover them with soil! Make sure you space them accordantly.
You can place them in a terrarium for greater humidity or just gently sprinkle them with
ro/distillated water a few times a day. They can also be germinated in same conditions as the
mature plants grow but if you want to give them a head start you have to grow them under
fluorescent lights for the first month. Good quality water is a must so please remember to use
only distillated, reverse osmosis or good clean rain water to grow these plants! If you are using
reverse osmosis water make sure the PPM is under 50.
After forming 3-5 true leaves you can take them in your greenhouse or windowsill. Most pygmy
sundews don't grow well in terrarium for long periods of time with the exception of a few hybrids.
Some species can grow well outside in full sun during the summer months others will just go
dormant and never wake up. It's common for a pygmy sundew to die from heat exhaustion
during summer so take precautions and have spare pots in different locations.
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From gemmae to gemmae
This representation shows Drosera scorpioides growing from gemmae until the plants get to
produce gemmae of their own. The plants are grown in a square 4" plastic pot in a 50/50
peat/perlite mix with a 1" peat/sand top layer.
The gemmae on the mother plant in the month of May (photo 1).
This representation shows Drosera scorpioides growing from gemmae until the plants get to
produce gemmae of their own. The plants are grown in a square 4" plastic pot in a 50/50
peat/perlite mix with a 1" peat/sand top layer.
The gemmae on the mother plant in the month of May (photo 1).
What is a pygmy Drosera gemma?
A pygmy Drosera gemma is a modified leaf, a vegetative bud produced by the plant as means of
asexual propagation. These plants can also propagate naturally by seeds but this comes as a
secondary option and less effective.
A pygmy Drosera gemma is a modified leaf, a vegetative bud produced by the plant as means of
asexual propagation. These plants can also propagate naturally by seeds but this comes as a
secondary option and less effective.
The gemmae are produced by the plants as soon as the rainy season
approaches. It appears that the decrease in daylight, the lower temperatures
and the moisture are the trigger for gemmae production. Each plant will
make teens or hundreds of gemmae each year. They can be found in the
center of the plant where the terminal bud (grow point) is.
In nature, the rain is the decisive factor in gemmae dispersion. The
gemmae are dispersed from the parent plant with a springlike mechanism
when the rain drops fall right on the center of the plant. In cultivation some
species eject the gemmae when mature, others just dry up on the plant if
not collected.
A pygmy Drosera gemma has 2 main parts: the modified leaf and the plant
embryo. They are perfect clones of the mother plant. The modified leaf
serves as a food reservoir until the young plant develops a functional root
system. The embryo has a green body which will be the terminal bud or
grow point of the new plant and a red tip from which the roots will grow.
Once on the ground, the gemmae need wet conditions in order to develop
their roots.
It is sometimes hard to ID pygmy Drosera when not in flower. A good way
to tell which is which is also by gemmae morphology. Most pygmy specie
will produce gemmae that will have a unique shape and size.
approaches. It appears that the decrease in daylight, the lower temperatures
and the moisture are the trigger for gemmae production. Each plant will
make teens or hundreds of gemmae each year. They can be found in the
center of the plant where the terminal bud (grow point) is.
In nature, the rain is the decisive factor in gemmae dispersion. The
gemmae are dispersed from the parent plant with a springlike mechanism
when the rain drops fall right on the center of the plant. In cultivation some
species eject the gemmae when mature, others just dry up on the plant if
not collected.
A pygmy Drosera gemma has 2 main parts: the modified leaf and the plant
embryo. They are perfect clones of the mother plant. The modified leaf
serves as a food reservoir until the young plant develops a functional root
system. The embryo has a green body which will be the terminal bud or
grow point of the new plant and a red tip from which the roots will grow.
Once on the ground, the gemmae need wet conditions in order to develop
their roots.
It is sometimes hard to ID pygmy Drosera when not in flower. A good way
to tell which is which is also by gemmae morphology. Most pygmy specie
will produce gemmae that will have a unique shape and size.
